Spilled Milk

If you've been taught to cook your peas just until they're bright green and fresh-tasting, you're about to get schooled. We know a guy with a pea-encrusted axe to grind. Guest: Francis Lam of The Splendid Table. MUSHY PEAS Adapted from Jamie Oliver 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 1/4 cup fresh mint leaves 1 pound frozen peas (preferably not petite peas) 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons butter salt and pepper In a saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mint and peas and cook until the peas begin to lose their frosty tinge. Add the water, cover, and simmer until the peas are army green, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, add the butter and salt and pepper to taste, and process to just shy of smooth. Serve hot. Yield: 4 servingsSpecial Guest: Francis Lam.